3/16" thick high carbon steel, 3.75" flat ground blade
textured G10 handle slabs
kydex sheath with IWB loop or
5-8 oz depending on thickness and handles variations
This knife is my modern interpretation of an ancient seax. It is great for use in either a forward or pikal (reverse) grip.
Seax was a common term for knives of all sizes in Viking times. Most had a nearly straight cutting edge and a dropped or spear point. Some had a straight clip, known as the broken back seax, which might have been the ancestor of the Bowie knife.
The long, straight edge has tremendous cutting power, and the angle of the dropped point is optimized for reverse grip jabs.
The slim handle conceals well and offers a good grip.
Here is one user's review:
The second I saw the original designs of the SEAX by Tom Halloran, I knew this was a knife that I wanted. I am very used to daily carrying a Strider DB for use in the urban environment. I wanted something that was capable of performing three very specific jobs in an easily carried package.
First, I wanted something that could function as a general-purpose cutter for routine cutting chores. I wanted this knife to be able to function as a stand-alone tool. I normally carry a folder for cutting chores, and the DB for prying and breaking things that are out of the realm of what a folder can handle. In this case, the SEAX needed to function for both uses. I found that the primary cutting edge on the SEAX allows for good utility cutting and has thus far been a good performer in this regard when used with a standard forward grip.
The second thing I was looking for was the knife to be able to perform as a defensive fighting tool. I use a very specific reverse grip technique for my self-defense needs with an edged weapon.The design of the SEAX allows for a small portion of the top clip to be sharpened. Without going into details, the blade design in combination with the grip design gives me the ability to stab, cut, and rip all from the reverse grip, while also being comfortable using a forward grip for mundane utility cutting.
The third criteria I was looking for was the ability of the knife to pry if needed. I work almost exclusively in urban areas and around a variety of vehicles. I asked Tom to shorten the blade on my knife a little over the standard SEAX and to use ¼” thick material to allow it to be less likely to snap if a lot of lateral force is applied in an emergency.Tom did an exceptional execution on setting the blade and handle geometry up exactly as I wanted it. I have no doubt that this knife will be able to perform crisis pry bar duty if needed while sacrificing very little in the cutting performance department.
I have my SEAX set up to be used on a belt rig in combination with a Gen. 2 Glock 19. I have several Glock 19’s stashed around the country. I can fly with just the SEAX and the support equipment for the Glock and be able to function anywhere without having to jump through hoops with the Airlines and flying with a gun.This knife has become a favorite “does it all” blade. Ease of maintenance has also been good. I normally use knives with high performance stainless blade steels. The only problem is that I do not do a very good job of sharpening them myself. My SEAX is parkerized 1080, and I have been able to keep it in a workable sharpened condition myself.Equally, I carry enough parts and a punch with my G19 to be able to completely rebuild the gun in the field myself. These two are made for each other as sort of the go anywhere, do anything combo. They are big enough to perform as a primary carry system in a tactical role, yet are small enough to be easily hidden for use in a concealment role or denied area use. To say that I am ecstatic with my “snubby SEAX” is an understatement. -Darryl Bolke
Note from Tom: The standard steel for most of my knives is now 01 tool steel, which holds a much better edge than 1080 and is still easy to sharpen.